Tahdig
A giant savory rice cookie. Of sorts.
Let us not quibble over whether a tahdig is really a giant rice cookie or not. It is comfort no matter how you describe it. To paraphrase Dahlia Lithwick ( who is so wise and clever she really should only be quoted directly): “Some people have mac and cheese as their comfort food. I have tahdig.”
Once you try tahdig, you will too.
Tahdig, for those catching up, is a traditional Persian rice dish that has incarnations across the Middle East. The recipe here is in its simplest form: Rice is cooked until tender, save for a crunchy, chewy turmeric-scented crust. The entire dish is inverted onto a platter for serving, and if you have done it correctly, the golden, crackly rice cookie remains intact.
Dahia Lithwick and I made tahdig across the miles, while recording the latest episode of the Secret Life of Cookies podcast. You can listen here.
Three things of note:
The rice in the recipe needs to soak at least an hour before cooking, and overnight if possible.
The recipe is not an old family recipe, but from Michael Solomonov and Steven Cook’s cookbook Zahav. Their recipe is better than having an old family recipe, believe me. The cookbook alone is worth owning for the hummus recipe, which is the greatest ever. Also: Go to Philly or Brooklyn and eat in Michael’s restaurants.
I get my turmeric from Diaspora spices, which is not a plug, cuz I don’t get paid a single cent or sprinkle of spice. I just like their ethos and their spices. It makes a great gift.
Tahdig
From Michael Solomnov and Steven Cook’s Zahav.
Here is a nice independent bookseller you can order it from. You can make a perfect gift, by also getting a copy of Dahlia’s latest book, Lady Justice. I get nothing from this, except for the wonderful benefit of my local bookstore continuing to thrive.
What You’ll Need:
2 cups jasmine rice
Kosher salt
Canola oil
Pinch or two ground turmeric
What You’ll Do:
Cover the rice with 4 cups water in a large bowl and add a pinch
of salt. Let soak for at least 1 hour or up to overnight. Drain well.
Combine 1/4 cup water, 1 tablespoon oil, and 1/2 teaspoon salt in a bowl and whisk to blend. Reserve.
Fill a large enameled or well-seasoned cast iron pot about halfway with water and add 1 tablespoon salt. Bring to a boil, add the rice, and boil until the rice is about three-quarters done. The rice shouldn’t be crunchy, but it should stick to your teeth when you bite a grain. Start checking after 1 minute, but it may take up to 10 minutes.
Drain the rice in a large colander and cool it off somewhat by gently lifting scoops of rice with a spoon to turn and fluff the grains.
Dry the pot well and coat the bottom and sides generously with oil. Set the pot on medium-high heat and heat until the oil just begins to send out a wisp of smoke. Off the heat, wipe out the pot with a paper towel and coat the bottom and sides with a fresh film of oil.
Sprinkle the bottom of the pot with the turmeric and gently spoon the rice into the pot. Lightly press the surface of the rice with the back of a spoon to even out the surface and slighly compress the grains. Drizzle the reserved water-oil mixture evenly over the rice.
Drape the top of the pot with a clean cottom or linen kitchen towel and put the lid on the pot over the towel. Pull the corners of the towel up over the lid and secure with a rubber band.
Set the pot over very low heat and cook, unopened and undisturbed, for 30 miues. Open the lid and test for the formation of a crusty by inserting a knife to the bottom of the bottom. If it doesn’t feel crusty, replace the towel and lid and continue cooking over very low heat until a good crust forms. Hard to believe, but true, this can take up to another 1 1/2 hours, depending on the heat of your burner and how long you’ve soaked the rcipe. Let rest off the heat for at least 20 minutes.
Carefully unmold the rice onto a platter and serve. (Or if it doesn’t unmold easily, simply scoop the rice into a serving bowl with the crispy shards on top.
Enjoy.
More recipes coming soon, including the mincemeat shortbread!
Questions? Deep thoughts? Share them here.
I will definitely try this recipe. I've never had it with turmeric. I was first introduced to tahdiq by a Persian male and his mother and I cook it every now and then with kabob. I was taught to use basmati rice and saffron, instead of turmeric. You lightly crush the saffron in a mortar and pestal with a tiny amount of sugar, and then add it to some warm water. I substituted butter instead of oil since I found the oil to be too much. You add about 1/2 - 3/4 of the saffron mix to the rice for the tahdiq, and then mix the rest into the rest of the rice as you add it back into the pan to steam. I cheat and use paper towels instead of a real towel. I also learned to add some additional butter to the rice on your plate. I love how recipes move around the world and each culture customizes them.
I'm currently on an M&Ms kick. We've enjoyed Peanut M&Ms, Dark Chocolate M&Ms, and Almond M&Ms. My girlfriend said, "No more!" Although, we still have a half bag (bigger one) left. I snuck out to the store and bought 3 more larger bags of the Dark Chocolate ones today, and they are not really hiding in the pantry. She is baking some kind of Oatmeal cookies tonight. She will probably like this recipe. P.S. she baked the Pumpkin Apple Cake and though I don't EVER care to eat pumpkin, it was quite good. I lie not. So, if anyone has hesitated in making this cake, it's been tastefully tested and passed. Fear not, though she may never make it again as she complained about how much trouble it was to make. I have recipes like that, too. Rum Raisin Apple Pie is one of them, but the payoff is fabulous. Carry on.